In the world of perfumery, you might see these two terms, Amber and Ambergris, being thrown around a lot. However, despite their very similar names, they represent entirely different substances with unique characteristics and origins. Let’s dive into the differences between amber and ambergris, exploring their uses, properties, and significance in fragrances.
Amber: The Imaginary Ingredient
Amber evokes warmth, richness, and depth. Traditionally, amber refers to the rich, honey-colored, fossilized tree resin formed over millions of years, commonly used in jewelry and folk medicine. However, in perfumery, "amber" refers to a fantasy note—a carefully crafted blend of ingredients that captures the essence of what amber might smell like, rather than a direct extraction from natural sources. Thus the accord we know as amber is created from a medley of other ingredients such as labdanum, benzoin, and vanilla, along with other resins to mimic its warm, sweet, and resinous aroma. Amber's fragrance is characterized by a cozy, sweet, and slightly woody scent, often described as comforting and luxurious.
Amber: The Olfactory Family
Amber also refers to the amber or oriental olfactory family, a cornerstone in perfumery known for complex, rich, warm, and exotic scents that evoke a sense of luxury and sensuality. This family is associated with the East due to the origin of raw materials like sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, spices, and resins. This family is also named the oriental family due to the association of these scents with the East.
Ambery Scent Characteristics
Some key characteristics of ambery scents include:
- Warmth and Sweetness: Amber fragrances typically exude a warm, sweet, and sometimes powdery aroma. This comforting warmth is often achieved through ingredients like vanilla, benzoin, and tonka bean.
- Resinous notes: Described as a rich, warm, and comforting smell, ingredients like frankincense and Myrrh provide that resinous scent, adding a slightly smoky depth to the scent profile.
- Exoticism and Spices: Spices such as cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg offer a slightly spicy character while adding a sense of exoticism.
- Intense: Amber fragrances are well known for their long-lasting yet intense scent that makes them the favored scent profile for evenings out and cold seasons as they create an enveloping scent that withstands the cold temperatures and passage of time.
Ambergris: The Mysterious Whale Solids
Often referred to as ‘floating gold’, ambergris is a rare and highly prized substance in the world of perfumery. Ambergris, which is French for grey amber, is a waxy solid usually a shade of grey, brown, or black, formed in the digestive systems of sperm whales. It is thought to be either expelled through the whale’s bowel movements or in its vomit, earning Ambergris the label ‘whale poop’ or ‘whale vomit’. However, scientists believe it's more likely for ambergris to be passed out of the whale’s body with its fecal matter and can float in the ocean for years before washing up on shore. Left exposed to the elements, it hardens and ages. This causes the ambergris to develop that unique, complex, musky aroma from its initial marine, fecal odor, and before it can be used in perfumery, it is diluted first with alcohol.
Ambergris origins
While the formation of ambergris was unveiled not too long ago, there is still much mystery surrounding the purpose of ambergris. Its formation is often attributed to the sperm whale’s diet which consists of large quantities of cephalopods, particularly squid. Scientists believe that when the sperm whale’s bile secretions, undigested squid beaks, and other intestinal matter get mixed within the intestinal tract, a stickygooey substance coats the lump to prevent any internal wounds from the sharp squid beaks and other undigested sharp objects, protecting the whale’s digestive system. This lump is what eventually will be known as ambergris.
Ambergris Scent Characteristics
Ambergris’s scent profile differs from that of amber despite some similarities. Ambergris’s keynotes are often described as:
- Marine and Fecal: Fresh ambergris often has a salty oceanic scent and the scent of fecal matter
- Earthy/Woody: Aged ambergris can develop an earthy, wood-like smell that some have compared to sandalwood and even Brazil nuts.
- Sweet and Musky: Some have likened the sweet musky smell of aged ambergris to that of tobacco and aged whisky, creating a warm and inviting scent.
- Animalic: It possesses a subtle animalic quality, adding depth and intrigue to its overall profile.
Uses of Ambergris in Perfumery
Other than its unique scent, ambergris is highly valued in perfumery for its exceptional fixative properties, which help to stabilize and enhance other fragrance notes.
- Fixative Properties: Ambergris extends the longevity and projection of perfumes, allowing the scent to last longer on the skin.
- Enhancer: It enhances the complexity and richness of other fragrance components, making the overall scent more dynamic and multi-layered.
- High-End Fragrances: Due to its rarity and cost, ambergris is typically found in luxury and niche perfumes, adding a touch of exclusivity and sophistication.
Ethical and Sustainable Alternatives to Ambergris
As a animal byproduct, it was inevitable with the growing demand for ambergris that its producers, sperm whales, were hunted. Given the ethical and conservation concerns associated with harvesting natural ambergris, the hunting of whales has since been banned almost worldwide. While ambergris can still be found and used if washed ashore, the perfume industry has since developed synthetic alternatives that mimic its scent and properties.- Synthetic Ambergris: These lab-created compounds replicate the aroma and fixative qualities of natural ambergris without harming whales. These alternatives are widely used in modern perfumery, offering a sustainable and ethical option.
- Ambroxan: One of the most popular synthetic substitutes, known for its warm, musky, and amber-like scent.
The Appeal of Amber and Ambergris in Perfumery
The allure of both amber and ambergris lies in their unique and captivating scents. Amber, with its warm and comforting aroma, is often associated with feelings of coziness and luxury. Its use in perfumery adds depth and richness to fragrances.
Ambergris, with its complex and evolving scent, adds a touch of mystery and sophistication to perfumes. Its rarity and the unique way it enhances other scents make it a coveted ingredient in high-end fragrances. The presence of ambergris in a perfume often signifies exclusivity and elegance, appealing to those who appreciate fine and rare olfactory experiences.
Mindful Formulation at Scent Journer
At Scent Journer, we approach the use of amber and ambergris with mindfulness and respect for nature. Our perfumers carefully select and blend these ingredients to create harmonious fragrances that resonate with sophistication and allure. By harmonizing a mixture of vegan and cruelty-free natural and sustainable synthetic alternatives, we ensure that our perfumes not only meet the highest standards of quality but also align with our commitment to ethical sourcing and sustainability.
