Using fruit peels from the trash to create a citrus perfume? Turning a vintage wood desk to a bottle of sophisticated cedarwood perfume? In an era where sustainability and environmental consciousness sit at the forefront of consumer priorities, the perfume industry is embracing a revolutionary trend: upcycled perfume ingredients. Fragrances containing these upcycled ingredients are often referred to as upcycled fragrances. They have taken the perfume industry by storm, taking upcycled ingredients from the strangest places to produce the familiar notes we love.
Upcycling transforms by-products, waste materials, or unwanted products from other industries, into new materials or products that are better for the environment. In the same way that slow fashion (aka companies that do not mass produce and make their products sustainably) and thrifting old garments and fabrics to extend their life cycle has become the ‘in’ thing, consumers have begun demanding for more environmentally conscious brands and products. Thus the perfume industry has responded in kind and is working towards circular fragrances or ‘slow’ fragrances that are produced with mostly or entirely environmentally friendly processes and materials. Hence, upcycling has been gaining traction as an innovative way to make better use of the earth’s resources and reduce the fragrance industry’s impact on the environment. This article explores what upcycled perfume ingredients are, how they are used in scent creation, and the significant environmental benefits they offer.
What are Upcycled Perfume Ingredients?
Upcycled perfume ingredients are derived from the by-products of other unrelated industries, such as food and beverage, agriculture, and forestry. Instead of discarding these materials and sending them to landfills, perfumers repurpose them into valuable fragrance components. These ingredients can include fruit peels, wood chips, leaves, and even spent grains from brewing.
Environmental Benefits of Upcycled Perfume Ingredients
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Low Oil Content
Through repurposing by-products that would otherwise end up in landfills, the perfume industry significantly reduces waste. This practice helps alleviate the burden on waste management systems and decreases the volume of landfill waste. For example, the citrus industry alone generates more than 40 million tons of waste a year worldwide and citrus peel waste accounts for almost 50% of wasted wet fruit mass. By salvaging these citrus peels, we can reduce a significant amount of waste that ends up in landfills. In addition, upcycling reduces the need for raw material extraction from fresh materials, thus conserving natural resources and further minimizing environmental impact.
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Energy and Resource Efficiency
Upcycling typically requires less energy compared to the production of new materials and their subsequent extraction. For instance, extracting essential oils from citrus fruit peels uses less energy than cultivating and processing new plants. In addition, if not used for upcycling, the waste products need to be shipped, stored, and processed before being discarded in landfills, resulting in additional processes that result in[ extensive carbon emissions with no useful outcomes. Thus by creating scents out of waste from other industries, brands can streamline this process and cut back on the industry’s overall carbon footprint. The utilization of by-products ensures that all useable components are used, hence ensuring existing resources are used to their fullest potential. Thus upcycling promotes a circular economy and sustainable sourcing practices.
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Biodiversity Conservation
By relying on upcycled materials, there is less pressure on wild plant populations and natural habitats. Requiring fewer ‘new’ raw materials helps prevent overharvesting and mass deforestation, thus further protecting biodiversity and preserving ecosystems and plant species that might otherwise be exploited for raw perfume ingredients.
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Innovation & Creativity
Upcycled materials are said to produce a more complex smell than their ‘new’ perfume oils counterparts. Hence using upcycled ingredients opens up new possibilities for scent creation, allowing perfumers to experiment with unconventional materials and unique notes to develop innovative, unique fragrances.
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Consumer Appeal
Environmentally conscious consumers are also increasingly attracted to products that align with their values. Upcycled perfumes offer a compelling story of sustainability and innovation, enhancing their overall market appeal.
Upcycled Ingredients Used in Perfumery
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Citrus Fruit Peel
The peels of citrus fruits like orange, lemon, and grapefruit are rich in essential oils and aromatic compounds. Typically obtained from the juice industry, once the pulp and juices have been fully extracted, these peels are often discarded with no other value to the industry. However, through processes like cold-pressing and steam distillation, these fruit peels can be transformed into vibrant, fresh notes for perfumes.
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Wood Chips, Sawdust
Wood by-products from the furniture and paper industries like cedarwood chips, and sandalwood sawdust can be upcycled to extract deep, woody aromas. These components add depth and warmth to fragrances, often forming the base notes.
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Flower & Plant Waste
Floral waste from the floral and botanical industry can be repurposed to extract delicate, aromatic oils. These upcycled floral elements provide natural, sustainable alternatives to synthetic fragrances. A popular source for these upcycled botanical matters, especially in India, are flowers left over from religious ceremonies such as jasmines and roses. These flowers can be collected and as they are largely still intact and in good condition, their extracts are often comparable to flowers grown solely for perfume.
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Spent Grains & Coffee Grounds
Another by-product of the food industry, materials such as barley grains from brewing, coffee grounds, and even solid sediments from wine are rich in complex aromas and can be processed to create unique, robust scent notes. These products can still elicit a luxurious and exotic scent, even from recycled sources.
Scent Journer’s Mission to Use Upcycled Ingredients
Scent Journer’s dedication to sustainability is evident in our choice of upcycled ingredients. We incorporate upcycled ingredients in three of our signature perfumes, The Blooming Jewel, A Starlit Spell, and Soaring At Dawn.
Two key top notes from The Blooming Jewel, Turkish Rose, and Carrot Heart, are derived from upcycled ingredients. The Turkish rose is derived from Rose Ultimate MD LMR For Life, a highly sustainable extraction born from discarded rose petals through solvent extraction. Meanwhile, carrot heart is extracted from carrot seeds which are typically discarded in the seed industry due to their low germination rates. However, it was found that these very seeds contained complex scented molecules and this is what is extracted to give the Carrot Heart LMR we use in to add a soft earthy touch to The Blooming Jewel.
Instead of using the typical clove buds to produce Eugenol, Scent Journer takes an innovative approach in A Starlit Spell by using the usually discarded fallen leaves from the clove tree instead. 100% of the Eugenol used in A Starlit Spell is derived from these leaves.
Finally, Soaring At Dawn also features an upcycled ingredient: Citus Labdunum. Labdanum is typically extracted from the isolated resins covering the leaves and branches of the Cistus plant. However, through the solvent extraction of the exhausted Cistus twigs and leaves, Cistus Neoabsolute can be harnessed, providing the beloved ambery facet with warm, woody sensuality in Soaring At Dawn.
Sustainability is one of our top values at Scent Journer, thus the incorporation of upcycled ingredients shows our drive to create fragrances that are beneficial to not just you, the user, but to the earth as well.
Conclusion
The incorporation of upcycled ingredients in perfumery is a testament to the industry's commitment to sustainability and environmental stewardship. By transforming waste into valuable fragrance components, the perfume industry not only reduces its ecological footprint but also fosters creativity and innovation. As consumers continue to prioritize sustainability, upcycled perfumes are poised to become a significant trend, offering beautiful, eco-friendly scents that resonate with the modern, conscientious consumer. Embracing upcycled ingredients is not just a trend; it's a forward-thinking approach that benefits the planet and paves the way for a greener, more sustainable future in perfumery.